XTC-3D High Performance 3D Print Coating - 24oz. Unit

Product Information

Adding Fillers - A variety of dry fillers can be added such as Cast Magic™ or bronze or other metal powders, Glow Worm™, Quarry Tone™ or Ure-Fil™ powders. The maximum filler load is an amount equal to Part A by volume. Pre-mix filler with Part A before combining with Part B. The answer in all these cases is the same. Clean the surface. Use a cleaner or solvent compatible with the surface being treated. Deodorized mineral spirits (mineral spirits minus toluene and other aromatic hydrocarbons) work well for many surfaces. One possible solution, though I haven't had an opportunity to try it since I heard about it, is to thin the XTC-3D with acetone or denatured alcohol. These should lower the surface tension and increase surface penetration. And of course, use appropriate safety precautions regardless of what you do. At the least, use gloves with epoxy as exposure to it can sensitize resulting in nasty allergic reactions on re-exposure.

After the job is done, leave the model to dry. It takes about 2-3 hours at room temperature, in the winter, in a garage, at a temperature of a few degrees above zero, the resin will take all day to dry up. As for the container, we leave it to dry as well. The dried resin comes easily away from the container walls when you bend them a little. There is a problem with the brush, though. You could toss it into the container with a solvent, but it is in fact only a half-measure, because the resin will never come away completely. If you leave the brush to dry, you may as well throw it away. It is therefore sensible to use rather cheap tools, because the lifetime of the brushes is very limited when working with the XTC-3D. Any product that you have subsequently cut, shaped, broken or modified, unless found to be faulty or defective. Coat any 3D Print Surface:XTC-3D® can be applied to both SLA and SLS prints. It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media. It also can be used to coat EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper. Measuring and Dispensing: You need to be accurate in measuring for XTC-3D to cure properly. Parts A and B can be measured by either volume or weight. Dispense proper proportions of parts A and B into clean plastic, metal or wax-free paper containers (do not use foam or glass cups). Mixing by volume is the easiest method, and with the included graduated medicine cup you can easily see the volume.

Select a Category

The XTC-3D can be spread on the model with ease and the process resembles regular painting. It is diluted enough so that there is no problem with even applying it to the model, and it is dense enough that it does not drip of while painting (though in the course of drying it does a little – though only from the fragments which are at high angles towards the ground, about 75-90º). Smoothing Surface – granular surface texture can be smoothed by applying a second coat of XTC-3D® (for glossy finish) or lightly sanding for matte finish. Hi Edel, I have used XTC but have not experienced your problem. Indeed the results have been excellent. Th eonly problem I suffered, on non horizontal surface was the coating creating "runs" and it took some practice to overcome that.

XTC-3D is an epoxy resin that mixes by volume rather than weight, which is a lot easier. A very small amount of XTC-3d is needed to coat a 3D print. With 1oz of mixed XTC-3D you can cover three Phil’s. Now, let’s get started: Thinning XTC-3D® for Coating Starch / Powder Printed Parts: Viscosity can be lowered with acetone or denatured alcohol to penetrate porous parts. Applying XTC-3D™ - Use a disposable chip brush or foam brush to apply XTC-3D™. To achieve the thinnest coating possible we recommend applying material with a foam brush. Brushing on one thin layer of mixed material is recommended for most prints to create a smooth, uniform coating: less than 1/64“(.039 cm). To avoid drips and runs, continue brushing and working the surface until the resin begins to set up. For particularly complicated prints with intricate detail you may want to coat one a section at a time for better control. XTC-3D™ bonds to itself. I certainly would not apply any thinner to the mix - not in the instructions! - but how much you load your brush may have an impact and of course is a personal decision, so one man's thin may not be another man's thin.

Applying XTC-3D: Use a disposable chip brush or foam brush to apply XTC-3D®. To achieve the thinnest coating possible we recommend applying material with a foam brush. Brushing on one thin layer of mixed material is recommended for most prints to create a smooth, uniform coating: less than 1/64“(.039 cm). To avoid drips and runs, continue brushing and working the surface until the resin begins to set up. For particularly complicated prints with intricate detail you may want to coat one a section at a time for better control. XTC-3D® bonds to itself.

Painting – XTC-3D™ can be painted and/or primed and then painted with acrylic enamel paints. For best results, lightly sand surface prior to painting. Time & Labor Savings:XTC-3D® fills in 3D print striations and creates a smooth, high gloss finish. The need to post finish is almost eliminated.

Customer Reviews

I'm way late to the party and signed up just to respond (I have a different 3D writer, but I wanted to contribute something I didn't see already posted (or maybe it was just in German). XTC 3D is for those people who dont want to risk their life for an stupid method how to clean 3D Prints Preparation: Materials should be stored and used in a room temperature environment (73°F/23°C). Elevated temperatures will reduce Pot Life. XTC-3D Part A resin and Part B Hardener must be properly measured and thoroughly mixed to achieve full, high-strength, solid-cure properties. Because no two applications are quite the same, a small test application to determine suitability for your project is recommended if performance of this material is in question.

Opened containers of resin, hardener, silicone or chemical release agent, unless found to be faulty or defective. Protective coating for smoothing and finishing 3D printed parts that does not melt plastic. XTC‑3D® fills in 3D print striations and creates a smooth, high gloss finish. The need to post finish is almost eliminated. XTC‑3D® can be applied to both SLA and SLS prints. It works with PLA, ABS, Laywoo, Powder Printed Parts and other rigid media such as EPS, EPDM and urethane foam as well as wood, plaster, fabric, cardboard and paper. Before you start working with the material, you should be well prepared for the job. The XTC-3D has a very short curing time after mixing, and therefore after mixing the components it is best to begin coating the model with the resin immediately. You should also pay attention to such details as how you are going to hold the model, or what is it going to be attached to. The material takes at least two hours to dry, so holding it by an appendix which you have just covered with resin is out of the question. Although it may seem obvious, keep it in mind from the start – otherwise you will have to paint the model in parts (which is sometimes inevitable anyway). Applying a Release Agent – For applications where adhesion is not desired, a spray release Ease Release® 200 available from Smooth-On may be used. Post Finishing: Cured material can be machined or sanded (wear NIOSH approved respirator mask to prevent inhalation).Post Finishing – Cured material can be machined or sanded (wear NIOSH approved respirator mask to prevent inhalation). Preparation – Materials should be stored and used in a room temperature environment (23°C). Elevated temperatures will reduce Pot Life. XTC-3D® Part A resin and Part B Hardener must be properly measured and thoroughly mixed to achieve full, high-strength, solid-cure properties. Measuring and Dispensing – You need to be accurate in measuring for XTC-3D™ to cure properly. Parts A and B can be measured by either volume or weight. Dispense proper proportions of parts A and B into clean plastic, metal or wax-free paper containers (do not use foam or glass cups). Also for this part I printed a jig which fitted on the bottom so that could rotate the part as I coated it without getting my hands on the part itself.