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Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

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If you’re looking for advice on how to paint Angron, the World Eaters’ Daemon primarch, you can find that article here. The other parts of the models are more consistent – the shiny insectoid carapace uses Gryph-Charger Grey over a Leadbelcher basecoat, with added highlights of thin striped Stormhost Silver , all followed up with a wash of Terradon Turquoise thinned with Contrast Medium . The meat and bone bits are Flesh Tearers Red over Wraithbone, with Pallid Wych Flesh highlights. The meaty parts then got a thinned Volupus Pink wash, while the talons and hooves were finished with a wash of Gryph-Charger Grey. Gav: Termagants and Neurogaunts

Red is, bar none, the hardest color to make look good on power armor. It's worse than yellow, there, I said it. The metallic highlights used were Pro Acryl Copper and Vallejo Game Color Chainmail. For these I wipe a bit of the paint off on a paper towel before running the brush against the upper surfaces of the metals areas. It’s similar to a drybrush technique. The leather bits were highlighted with Vallejo Flat Earth. Red Armor Highlights: The armor is highlighted with a mix of Hyek Yellow and Burnt Orange, at least 2:1. Rather that doing continuous smooth edge highlights I did short lines and dots to give it a rougher appearance. The darker splotches were hit with the highlight color on the bottom edges to give them the appearance of a slightly cratered surface. Flesh Tearers Intercessor Credit: Skails Flesh Tearers Intercessor Credit: Skails

The Khorne Daemons: The Khorne Daemons are a faction of Chaos Daemons known for their association with violence and bloodshed. Wild Rider Red can be used to paint the details of their armor and weapons, such as the blood and gore on their weapons.

Gloss varnish the whole thing. We’re going to work on this at the same time as the reds for a moment, so we’re doing steps 6-9 to apply decals and a pinwash. The white armor got primed with Stynylrez Grey, and an initial coat of Vallejo Model Air White Grey was applied. I built up highlights with Vallejo Model Air Insignia White and Vallejo Model Air White (using the final pure white only very sparingly). If I was doing these again I’d probably use ProAcryl Titanium White instead. It’s not a different color, but it’s the nicest white I’ve used and I need to sing its praises everywhere. I hit them all with a Satin Varnish at this point – you can make satin by mixing gloss and matte roughly 50:50.Rhinox Hide: Rhinox Hide is a rich brown color that can be used in combination with Wild Rider Red to create an analogous color scheme. This color can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature and can also be used to paint the details of the miniature, such as the markings and symbols. There’s other little details that can be painted but this is my stopping point for a non-display miniature. This is the general workflow I use for most of my miniatures and I find that it is a nice mix of speed and detail for me. Dylan Gould’s Method If you want to see this process in more detail I’d recommend watching Cult of Paint’s excellent tutorial on preshading via their YouTube channel.

I use army painter Pure Red on my Blood Angels as I started my army a long time ago when Bood Angels were a much brighter shade than today. I found Mephiston Red too dark and it clashed with my old models which were painted with Blood Angels red (a shade close to Wild Rider).

The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. Similarly with the plasma pistol, I first paint the plasma coils in white. Then with my detail airbrush I spray white around the coils (you can also do this by hand with thinned white paint). I spray Frostheart Contrast paint over the area. I go over the plasma coils again in white and a thinned layer of the blue contrast so that it’s brighter than the surrounding area. Finally I highlight the corners of the plasma coils with white.

Reikland Fleshshade wash all over the skin, including the mouth where we’ll just leave that shading as is The Wild Rider Red acrylic paint from Citadel Colour is a premium color that’s ideal for painting miniatures. The base coat is a deep, rich crimson with a matte texture that offers good coverage. To ensure that the color is stable and long-lasting, the pigments used in the paint are carefully chosen. Wild Rider Red is a fantastic base color for any beginner’s palette since it offers a stable foundation for layering and highlighting. For factions who utilize red as part of their color scheme, it can be used as an alternative to a primary red. What armies to paint with Wild Rider Red

I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White. Our readers might be surprised to learn that not all painting is done on models! I painted this picture of my beloved yet troublesome cat, Mini, at a “drink wine and paint stuff” event hosted by my employer in what I think was the Spring of 2012. This picture was taken in the Summer of 2011, when Mini was still a wee kitten.

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