Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Warpstone Glow

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Once that’s figured out, I based everything that was going to be metallic in Leadbelcher thinned with Lahmian Medium, and everything Canoptek or an energy blade in Caliban Green thinned with water. Previously when working on Canoptek stuff I’ve used Caliban Green Spray (now out of production), and what I found here was that CG paint alone was a little bit more of a vibrant green than I really wanted for the base on the legs. Here I salvaged it by darkening down with a wash of Dark Angels Green contrast, for all later models I used 2:1 Caliban Green/Incubi Darkness, which gave what I wanted straight away. Once both are applied, I then apply a layer of thinned Ironbreaker to the silver as well. The other answer is that washes and highlight colours will do more then enough to differentiate the different materials, particularly with how most marine units are actually surprisingly limited in how many different textures are used. Most can be broken down into the following based in my scheme:

The Novokh Dynasty are close combat monsters on the battlefield, and are visually distinct with a striking red color scheme that uses splashes of white. edition models deserve bright red weapon casings! Considering the age of this model, basecoat the area with my everlasting pot of Citadel Mechrite Red. If you don’t live in 2009, I think that Khorne Red is a decent substitute. Finally, zenithally airbrush on Citadel Nurgling Green at about a 45 degree angle. I’m not super great at keeping the Zandri dust visible, but you should aim to keep some of it in the middle to get a good gradient. Whiteshark12: The easiest way to paint the weird charcoal skin of Salamanders is to not have any skin exposed. Thank you for your time, I will not be taking questions.

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Step 1, of course, is to assemble all required tools – I set up here with the sprue for the Skorpekh and roughly the set of paints I thought I’d need. The silver paints and the bronze cover in one to two coats over a dark base coat, the gold colours need two to three, which is absolutely amazing, especially for gold and bronze paints. The colours are very close matches to their Citadel counterparts, but unfortunately, the silver triad is impaired by Plate Armour, which is hardly different to Sir Coates Silver (which is an almost 1:1 match to Leadbelcher, but with finer metallic particles). Not a dealbreaker, but something to be aware of going forwards. Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats Paints Review – Testing Step 4: The chest emblem gets painted Balthasar Gold. Step 5: Time to wash everything. Nuln OIl on the Leadbelcher parts, Carroburg Crimson on the Red, Agrax Earthshade on the gold, Contrast Gryph-Hound Orange on the orange parts. As a form of pure Dhar, warpstone is a valuable resource for necromancers and Vampires. It is said that Nagash himself consumed mainly Warpstone during his flight from Nehekhara and that it became infused into his very bones and melted his flesh away. [3a]

The implementation of the painting triad system (with Shadow, Mid-tone and Highlight paints) is an excellent idea. This makes understanding colour transition and highlighting so easy for brand-new painters, and also makes grabbing the right colour for your scheme extremely easy. Use pure Scale 75 Peridot Alchemy as an edge highlight. For reflex highlights, mix in a little bit of Scale 75 Speed Metal or White AlchemyAny metals on the bases were done in Balthazar Gold or Leadbelcher depending on whether they were ornamental or industrial, and washed/drybrushed appropriately. Finally, the bases themselves were painted with two thin coats of Zandri Dust, ready for PVA and sand. With that, the models were complete! The eye lenses follow the typical style for doing lenses and have a reasonably simple set of colours too. I start with khorne red as the base, then add a single layer each of wazdakka, wild rider, fire dragon and flash gitz working towards the brightest point. Sometimes on a bigger lense I will add a transition mix between each colour but you can get away without that on a surprising number of things. Next up for the reflection I use a simple white to draw it in, its worth mentioning that I use the same basic recipe for screens and targeting laser just replacing the white reflection with flash gitz! The easiest way to paint the weird charcoal skin of Salamanders is to not have any skin exposed. Thank you for your time, I will not be taking questions. Flames Salamanders. Credit: Whiteshark12

For the Necron Warriors I went with a really simple scheme that can be easily replicated across a large number of models. Metal bodies, Red chests/shoulders/helmets. It’s roughly a 9-to-12 step process. For Indomitus, I decided I wanted to start out with the Skorpekh Destroyers, as they’re an exciting new unit and I thought they’d provide a decent canvas to work on. The Skorpekh Lord is also the unit I’m most excited by on a tactical level, so warming up on the Destroyers seemed like a good plan! Finally, paint in the lenses and the Gauss energy. For the red lenses, just use the color progression we used for the gun casing. For the Guass energy and green lenses, basecoat the areas with Citadel Caliban Green, then glaze in progressive amounts of Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, and Gauss Blaster Green. Finally, base the model and you are done! I like to put a little bit of rust pigments on the feet and other low hanging parts of my models to tie them in, but I think I went a little too heavy here. I’m definitely excited to see my Necrons on the table again soon. I’ve already begun planning how how I’m going to glow up my Thaszar the Invincible model to better match the cooler, edgier Necron models of 9th edition. No realm has as greater use for or need of warpstone than the great Skaven Under-Empire. Also called "god-stone" among their kind because they believe it to be a gift of their deity, the minor Chaos God known as the Horned Rat [11a], the role of warpstone in Skaven society is diverse, serving as a source of energy for their twisted magic, advanced technology, and even as a key ingredient to be used in their breeding and mutation experiments. [1a]

The Gold is relatively simple. I use two different methods for the gold in this army. Troops got a simple base coat of Retributor Armor followed by a wash of the contrast paint Guilliman Flesh thinned out. The characters & vehicles got a treatment of Scale 75 gold paints. Starting with a base coat of Decayed Metal, then Dwarven Gold and lastly Elven Gold. Once this is all laid down, I give it a thin coat of Guilliman Flesh.